When purchasing jacket/blazer and trousers made of wool or wool blends, there are two categories that are often mentioned. One is the weight of the cloth sometimes in grams per square meter (gsm) or as an ounce weight per yard; the other is called a ‘Super’ number.
The weight of the cloth highlights the season the clothes are designed for. A lightweight cloth for summer and warmer months, a heavier cloth for the colder climes and winter months. In Australia, the majority of wool suits will be weighted from 265gsm to 285gsm, representing what is called in Europe the 4-Seasons material. Some cloth, like the English flannels may be 300+gsm, beside the coldest cities in the country, this weight can be too heavy for the Australian climate.
The ‘Super’ number is referring to the construction of the wool being used. Originally, the wool would be defined by the mill and this was called the worsted number. Also, the s represented ‘super fine’ as in the nature of the wool strand, but in the modern era, the s-number is an international unit of measurement for the construction of garments and held to an exacting standard.
When wool has been processed and coloured, it sits in bundles. One pound of wool can produce over 500 yards of woollen cloth. The cloth made from this material is often no greater than s80 in value; this number represents each wool strand being split 80 times and one pound of wool producing over 4000m of material. With each fibre being about 19micrometers (about 0.019mm – human hair is 0.05mm).
Woollen shirts and sweaters will be made with about s80, thicker jumpers can be as low as s30.
Quality suits may start at s90, but the usual minimum standard for a quality suit is an s100 rating. Many European mills produce nothing less than s110 material.
Any suit with an s120 or less can be worn 3 times per week. As long as the owner brushes the suit, airs the suit, keeps it on hangers and allows the suit to breathe; aside from any direct spillages, a good steam once per fortnight will keep the suit in solid working order and might require a dry clean once every 3 months. Having a second or third suit will stretch this timeframe out; with three suits in rotation, someone may only need to dry clean when the garment is soiled.
Suits constructed out of s130 and s140 material are able to be continuously worn for 2 to 3 days per week. Using the same routine for care, two s130 suits can last many months before any dry cleaning might be required (again barring any spillages).
For those suits of s150 to s180, these are suits that should be worn once per week or even once per fortnight. With the material being about 15micrometers, they are one third of a human hair. The key takeaway being that the s150+ suit is one of fine (read: fragile) construction and not to be worn for regular everyday use.
Armed with this information, someone buying a suit can begin the journey to find the right cloth. Understanding wool weights and Super numbers is key to selecting the right suit for your lifestyle, climate, and frequency of wear. Whether you need a durable, everyday suit or a refined garment for special occasions, the right choice will ensure longevity and comfort. At Briggins, our experts can guide you through the process, helping you find the perfect balance of quality, practicality, and style. Visit us to explore our range and discover a suit tailored to your needs.
