In the world of menswear fashion, there are various terms that are used with very few definitions, two of those are ‘smart casual’ and ‘business casual’.
Today, we are exploring the updated meaning of business casual. Updated, you ask? The general theory behind ‘business casual’ could also fall under the heading ‘Corporate American Standard’. In an effort to casualise the workplace and avoid a ‘stuffy uniformed look’, there grew a new uniform.
When presented, it all looks OK. To quote one of the greats, “There is nothing less ‘OK’ than something that is only ‘OK’.” Of course, we are referring to the following:
The jacket being navy blue and single-breasted; trousers are camel or tan coloured with a brown belt; shoes are brown slip-ons (loafers); the shirt being an oxford button-down shirt (often white, though sky-blue is also allowed) or a button-down business shirt in white or with acceptable patterns such as stripe or window pane check. Of course… no tie.
Is there anything wrong with this business casual look? Of course not. It is an easy look to achieve and, with the right fit, this will make anyone seem… OK.
A Small Word About Trousers
Chinos have been a US staple since the 1940s when the US military adopted them during their occupation of the Philippines, with returning soldiers making them popular as they brought their clothing habits back into civilian life. By the 1980s, chinos were an international phenomenon styled luxuriously by Ralph Lauren and others, achieving a newfound layer of formality and style.
Chino trousers were seen, in US circles, as being more formal than jeans, less formal than woollen trousers, and acceptable in the corporate world. The English, having used them since the mid-1840s, only ever saw them for what they were: trousers worn for manual labour. Which explains why adoption of the chino trouser into the corporate wardrobe was slower in other parts of the world.
Phil Collins is Wrong: A Jacket is Required
The traditional jacket is made with large amounts of construction and purpose: the canvas, the shoulder padding, even the sleeve length, there are ‘rules’ and conditions to building a jacket. The sport jacket is less constructed, has slightly longer sleeves (instead of leaving some shirt visible, the jacket sleeve is as long as the shirt sleeve), and often comes in more interesting patterns.
Wearing the jacket immediately moves the wearer up a rung or two on the formality ladder, and the colours can be as toned down or as interesting as you like.
The New Business Casual
Stepping forward, the materials and construction of clothing make garments much more durable and easier to build. The idea of new business casual is to be formal enough while still looking comfortable and relaxed.
Wearing a mid-tone or dark grey woollen trouser can pair with almost any colour of jacket and shirt combination. First, unlike previous generations, every workplace is often a self-contained environment of air-conditioned comfort. Second, being a classic look means that it is never out-dated or out of place.
Fabrics and Comfort in Modern Business Casual
The new business casual is about the wearer being comfortable, not presenting a ‘casual look to make everyone else feel better’. In the modern era, there are many ways to achieve that with materials such as linens or linen/cotton blends of trousers for hot summer days, or lyocell as a way to have the comfort of lightweight material and the durability of linen.
However, for a formal environment, the weight, strength, and breathability of wool will always look like one has shown up for work. Thicker wools or flannels for winter, and lightweight wools for summer, remain the most reliable options.
Shirts and Sport Jackets in a Business Casual Wardrobe
For the new business casual shirt, it is about the comfort of the material and a good straight collar to maintain the formal look. The rest of the fabric can be soft, brushed, or blended to increase daily comfort. For example, a well-fitted plain coloured polo shirt can also be used.
The sport jacket can be of almost any colour and pattern, with very few wrong answers, the only criteria to be met being the construction. Moving away from fixed jackets with heavy padding and canvas allows the cloth to drape more effortlessly over the body. Changing the jacket will alter the tone of the outfit without sacrificing comfort.
Final Thoughts on the New Business Casual
The new business casual draws on classical looks and feel, with comfort in mind. The materials are softer and whether you are catching the red-eye and the midnight flight back, sitting in a car all day, or at a desk, the comfort of the clothing while still looking the part is the most important feature.
Coming into Briggins, we can help shape your wardrobe and, more importantly, assist you to step up into the new business casual and move beyond simply looking ‘OK’.
