At some point the question arises about pockets… they’re pockets, right?
Once upon a time, all suit jacket pockets were jetted, or flapless. Then, sometime in the early 1920s, the style trend for flapped pockets became ‘all the rage’ and found its way into the mainstream of menswear. Regardless of flap or no-flap, the pocket should always line up with the bottom button of the jacket.
Flap Pockets vs Jetted Pockets
Flap pockets add a layer of fabric to the jacket, making it look less sleek and dressy. Which is why the more formal dinner suits are always constructed with jetted pockets. A quality flap pocket is one that is ‘double-bosomed’, which allows the flap to be tucked into the pocket and give the appearance of the more formal jetted pocket, providing a more formal and finished look.
Patch Pockets and Informality
The flap pocket is more formal than the patch pocket, which is an extra piece of material added to the outer layer of the jacket. The patch pocket is ideally suited for the sports jacket and lightly coloured two-piece suits (beige, tan, cream, and white, for example) to assist in creating a more informal look. Were a navy, mid-grey, or pinstripe suit jacket to be adorned with patch pockets, it would immediately look out of place even to the most untrained observer.
The Ticket (Change) Pocket
On occasion an additional pocket is added above the lower right pocket, this is the change – also known as ticket – pocket. Regardless of whether it is flapped or unflapped, the inclusion of this detail has always been seen as a custom-tailored option. The flapped variant being less formal than the un-flapped version.
Slanted (Hacked) Pockets
Almost all lower pockets are horizontal in cut, there is also a slanted pocket option. The slant pocket, or ‘hacked pocket’, is a more traditional English finish. The angle of the pocket makes it easier to access contents while out riding and was found almost exclusively on early riding jackets (also called hacking jackets for use on leisurely rides that were conducted on retired or ‘hacked’ horses). The slant pocket rarely shows up outside of traditional English tailoring, and this type of pocket is likely to be found only on the single-breasted jacket.
Slant pockets are often accompanied by a likewise slanted change pocket, making the overall slant look best for the sporty country feel.
Final Considerations on Jacket Detailing
The tone of the jacket or suit can define the style, and in that vein, the detailing. It is here that working with the stylist can help keep the tone consistent and whether the outcome is a black-tie standard dinner suit or a tweed-style country jacket, the details always matter.
Quality styling is about producing clothes that are comfortable and enjoyable to wear; the more comfortable the clothes are, the more likely they are to be worn and if you enjoy wearing something, you will find occasions to wear the clothes.
