Those words hit hard and clear. If we see the 1st Commandment: Thou Shall Fit, then we can move onto what can be the individual tastes of the overall look.
A suit that is technically the ‘good fit’ may be in its own way, not quite right for the wearer. A jacket that appears to fit comfortably on the shoulders, may feel tight to the wearer that is not used to that style, likewise, trousers that fit the waist may also seem ‘off’ based on previous experiences.
If something is a ‘good fit’, how can this be?
Well, I’m glad you asked.
To select clothing from ‘off the rack’, is, as we say, a game of economics. Giving something up for something else, which can mean that shoulder fit has been sacrificed for arm length, girth (read: belly), or the jacket length. Becoming used to the oversize feel means that a Good Fit can seem restrictive in the shoulders and chest, and tight around the waist (for trousers).
Which brings us back to the individual.
When we measure anything, be it footwear, suits, trousers, or even underwear, the unit of measurement is a 1-Dimensional value. The Human body, for all of its foibles, is a 3-Dimensional object and the shape and size of the frame is important.
Getting the fit right is part one, getting the feel is part two. The feel of the garment can only be experienced by the wearer of the clothes and with that we rely on the feedback.
There is a point of no-return, where the wearer has to accept that the ‘feel’ will be different, or the drape (the way in which cloth hangs) will be different, and the shape of the body may create new challenges. Here we are in the territory of ‘best fit’ (as previously discussed). These are all mechanical in nature.
Style is that individual taste that changes how the garment ‘feels’ on the body, or how the wearer wants to the look to be achieved.
For a key example, we look at trousers, The length of the leg may be longer or shorter as the wearer requires. While there may be mechanical reasons why a length would be shorter or longer, the wearer may prefer a full break or no break (the break being the way the hem of the trouser sits upon the footwear).
Certain styles encourage certain breaks, an English cut is ¼ or ½ break, the American style is a full break, the Italian being no-break, and the continental (being German, Spanish, and Parisian) being no-break to ¼ break.
There are no wrong answers, merely preferences.
An Understanding of the different cuts and styles can help with knowing how to narrow the selections and the preference can be influenced by body shape or how the wearer wants to look.
As we say in the business, know the rules in order to know which ones to break.
Cloth colour and pattern also matter, and while there are always some mainstays in the palette (navy, charcoal, and black), a bold colour/pattern may seem like a good idea but can also have a different look once the finished product is being worn. Green and purple being great examples of colours that sound good but if poorly executed may leave the wearer feeling uncomfortable.
In finding one’s own style, it is good to find inspiration, to see different cuts and explore options. In the end the discussion is to balance mechanical fit with the final decision falling upon the wearer for style and cut.
Follow the rules until you need to break them. Search for inspiration until you know what is best for yourself.
Be your own style icon.
